“The devil is in the details,” my mom always used to say. She was right.
As you may know from our previous article on "Why Italian suits are different" at Benici we love to add subtle signature touches on every product that we make. Some of these details are functional, others are traditional add-ons found on high quality suits, and others are there to satisfy your own personal taste.
This two articles series is meant to give you a brief overview of these notable features, so that you will be able to talk about your suit like a knowledgeable tailor would. Besides, you can use your new found knowledge to recognize good quality suit from poor quality garments. Trust us, even your favourite fashion blogger will not know about some of these secrets.
Before we get down to business, let us clarify one important thing.
Tailoring a suit is an art, not a science. We do our best to simplify the ordering process so that even someone who did not read this article will be able to easily purchase a new custom garment. We have picked some of our favourite features, and added them as a standard on every custom configuration. If something signals quality, and does not noticeably affect the overall look of your garment, chances are that it has already been added to your suit.
Nevertheless, we are not able to forecast everyone’s preferences. If you do not want to miss your favourite signature touch, simply read our step-by-step instructions carefully, or contact a Benici style specialist when customizing your suit.
Part I: Belt Loops, Shirt Shoulders, Felt Undercollar
Part II: The Half Nail, Pick Stitching, Surgeon Cuffs
Let’s get started!
As you can see from the picture above, our belt loops are quite different from the ones that you would find in your every day jeans, or casual trousers. Don’t believe us? Go check for yourself.
On the one hand, you will notice that Benici dress pants have a little fold at the bottom of the loop. On the other hand, belt loops on jeans and casual trousers are simply stitched on both ends.
This feature is both stylish, and functional. It should be a must on every suit trouser! Beware of those companies that do not add this detail on their formal garments; chances are that they are using a standardized manufacturing process that cannot guarantee the quality and style that you are looking for.
Tradition at its finest. The shirt shoulder is a modern remake of the worldwide famous Neapolitan shoulder. The stitching process is relatively more complex, but the benefits are endless. Our shirt shoulder is built to closely follow your natural body curve, giving your suit a unique, and stylish look. This is a one-of-a-kind feature that only traditional Italian tailors will even dare to stitch on a suit.
So, what’s the difference? Without getting too technical, the difference with a regular shoulder lies in the way the arm is attached to the body of the suit. Because of the reduced padding, and different structure, the shirt shoulder will closely follow the shape of your body, therefore removing the extra fabric roll that you would notice on a regular suit shoulder.
Where is the trick? Despite this being one of our favourite custom additions, there is no universal law when it comes to art. A shirt shoulder will create a slight shirring on the top part of your suit, and it may confer a more casual look to your garment. At the end of the day, taste may be the only factor for your decision.
If you are not sure about which option to choose, or if you would like to learn more about this topic, simply read one of these two articles:
One of the coolest, yet most traditional features that you will find on a Benici suit.
“Back in the days”, suits were a precious and valuable item that only a few could afford. Much like it happens for shirts, the interior of a suit collar would often get ruined much quicker than the rest of the garment.
The solution? Unstitch your collar, turn it the other way, and stitch it back. The felt undercollar was used as a guide to let people know where to start unstitching the suit from.
Today, our master tailors want to respect the tradition by placing this historical component on every Benici suit. Of course, this extra support will also stiffen up your suit’s collar; this way, you will look perfect from every angle.
If you enjoyed discovering about the care that goes into making a Made in Italy suit, stay tuned for part II of this article. If you don’t like reading, simply contact one of our Benici style specialist to receive one-on-one help during your first order.
“Benici, bringing made in Italy right to your doorstep”
Disclaimer: Our skilled master tailors are constantly striving to provide you with a product that closely reflects the tradition of Made in Italy suits. As we learn more about your preferences, we might apply some slight changes to the standard features that are added on every custom configuration.